Living Christmas Tree

Each year many people choose to bring a living tree into the home for Christmas.  Smaller potted and even some balled and burlapped evergreens make great candidates for a living Christmas tree.  Living Christmas trees should only stay in the home for 2-3 weeks and prefer cool room temperatures.  Lighting the tree with cool LED lights instead of warmer incandescent bulbs is a big help.  Treating the tree with an anti-desiccant spray such as Wilt-Stop will also slow down moisture loss.  Water the tree every day as it can never be allowed to dry out.  Once the decorations are removed, plan on planting the tree immediately.  This means that you need to plan ahead and prepare a planting hole now to receive the tree in January.

Choose a proper location in your yard to be the final home for your Christmas tree.  Take into consideration the ultimate size of the tree as well as its soil and light requirements.  Dig the hole before the ground freezes.  The size of the hole should be as deep as the root ball and 2-3 times as wide.  Amend the soil with leaf compost and store the soil in a location where it will not freeze and will be easy to access in January.  Now fill the hole with straw to slow down the frost.  At planting time, remove the straw from the hole and install the tree using the saved, unfrozen soil.  Water the plant heavily and much around the tree using the same straw that once filled the hole.  Plan on watering the tree again in the early spring once the soil has thawed.  What a great holiday tradition to begin the next year and to remember for many years to come as the trees grow and flourish.

Leaf them alone

Right now we all have an abundance of leaves collecting on our lawns and in our landscapes.  In time we begin to see large piles of leaves collecting along our curbs but is this the best way to utilize the annual leaf drop?

There are alternatives besides raking to the curb.
- Instead of raking, considering leaving the fallen leaves on your lawn to be chopped up by the lawn mower.  A modest amount of leaves shredded by the mower can provide a natural, organic boost to the lawn.  Just make sure the layer of chopped leaves is not so thick as to bury the lawn or create a mat of leaves on top of the grass.
- Shredded leaves from your mower or shredder make a great organic winter mulch for your perennials.  A thin layer spread over the perennials once the ground has begun to freeze is a great way to protect sensitive plants or shallow rooted perennials such as coral bell and Shasta daisy.
- Consider working in a layer of shredded leaves to the vegetable garden or annual flower garden providing an organic boost in the spring.

The annual drop of leaves from our deciduous trees is nature's way of returning to the soil what it used during the summer.  We can help in the task by using this bounty of organic materials ourselves in our own yards or encouraging our cities to compost the leaves we rake to the curb.

Relax

Recently a starting quarterback for a local green and gold football team implored his fans to relax.  Well I want to implore you to relax when it comes to preparing your yard and landscape for winter.  We all want to make short work of our remaining outdoor chores but in many cases it’s still just too early.


Let’s discuss a few examples:
•    Your lawn:  No you cannot put the lawn mower away just because it’s October.  You need to keep mowing and it will benefit your lawn to do so until it stops growing.  In some years that’s the end of October but in others it could be the end of November.  Remember, relax and let Mother Nature dictate the pace.
•    Winter mulches:  These mulches which are designed to help your perennials or tender plants shouldn’t be applied until the ground has cooled or even begun to lightly freeze.  Applying too early may trick your plants into making the wrong assumption that the cold weather is still weeks away.  Remember, relax and let Mother Nature dictate the pace.
•    Cannas, dahlias and other summer flowering bulbs should not be dug until the foliage has died down and been hit by a hard freeze.  Digging too early will only make them harder to overwinter inside our homes.  Remember, relax and let Mother Nature dictate the pace.
•    Delay any pruning of woody plants from now until they are fully dormant.  Of course you could also just decide to hold off on any pruning until March or April.  Fall pruning can leave wounds that simply will not heal at this time and this increases the chance for disease or winter damage.  Remember, relax and let Mother Nature dictate the pace.

Think Spring!

Don’t be confused by the title.  This really is a new entry for October!  Now is the time to think of spring and the beautiful displays of hyacinth, tulip, and daffodil that will fill your yard.

Here are a few tips to remember as you plan:






- If planned properly, spring blooming bulbs can add color from April to June.
- All spring blooming bulbs require well-drained soils.  If this is not the case in your yard, now is the time to work in plenty of compost, peat moss, and pulverized topsoil before you plant.
- Bulbs look their best in masses.  I like to recommend no less than 25 tulips or daffodils be used and no less than 50 of the smaller bulbs like crocus be used for the biggest "Wow!"
- Spring blooming bulbs do best in full sun.  However, that doesn’t mean that bulbs cannot be planted under some trees.  Remember that the early bloomers would be at their best long before the tree leafs out.
- When planting bulbs the proper depth is 2.5 – 3 times the diameter of the bulb.

We’d love to see pictures of your bulb displays next spring.  Peak bloom time is only 6 months away so get your camera ready.

It's out of control...

People often tell me that they previously had a wonderful garden but due to something in their lives, it "simply got out of control."  They desperately want to find a way to bring the old landscape back.  Sometimes this is easily done and sometimes it is simply not possible.  In either case, all you need is a plant.  Attack, be patient, and be ready for some hard work.

Last year portions of my yard got out of control following a prolonged illness.  Aggressive weeds like Creeping Charlie and nightshade took over large areas once planted with perennials, small fruits, and flowers while shrubs became much too tall.  This year my health has improved and my goal was to once again gain control of these areas.  It's been almost 4 months since our growing season started and the battle is almost won.  So, how was it accomplished?

Attack: From early spring on, this area of my year received special attention.  I walked it daily looking for the weeds that once dominated.  By spraying or pulling something every day, the weeds were not allowed to go to seed or to grow so large that they force out more desirable plants.  As new weeds germinate, they were quickly removed with the hope that no other seeds remained.  I had pruned back many plants to once again allow the sunlight in where it had become shade.  With the return of space, sun, and water, I've been able to replant lost plants and bit by bit the look I once had is returning.

Be Patient: It had taken 4 months of diligent work to clear the area of weeds and to reshape the trees and shrubs.  One weekend of work wasn't going to do it, nor was a week or a month.  In fact, the job of regaining control continues today as every day seems to grow another crop of those persistent weeds.  I wouldn't be surprised if I'm still pulling weeds as the snow falls.

Hard Work: I think you've alreay figured this section out.

If you feel your yard is out of control, now is the time to develop your plan for the rest of the year.  Start the attack today and make it a daily habit.  Be patient, as it will take time.  Continue to work hard to make it all happen.  In time you will be back in control and enjoying the fruits of your labors.

Weeds: Can't Live With Them

What is a weed?  My plant taxonomy professor made us commit to memory that a weed is "an aggressive invader of a disturbed area."  This is very true but probably not what came to mind as you started reading.  For the sake of this article, let's call weeds "and plant out of place."

So, what is the best way to control these rogue plants in our gardens or landscape?  Plan A is to never let them get out of control in the first place.  The easiest time to control any weed is when it is small.  The key is to eliminate the weed before it becomes deeply rooted in the soil, which can be done in a number of ways.  Small weeds can easily be controlled by hand pulling, hoeing, or chemical application of herbicides.  The best example of such an herbicide is Round-Up.  A weekly inspection and weeding of the landscape will effectively control weeds with the least amount of effort.

If your property is large or your weeds are already out of control, consider yourself beyond Plan A.  Let's discuss Plan B. Plan B will depend entirely on on the weed we are discussing.  Weeds that develop a strong central root (like dandelion) or root along their stems (like Creeping Charlie) have the nasty ability to regenerate themselves from even the smallest portion of the root or stem left behind from pulling.  This means that herbicide applications are your Plan B.  Remember that most over the counter herbicides will also kill your desired plants.  Pre-mixed spray bottles with directional or foaming nozzles, sponges, or even paint brushes can be used to apply the chemical to only the leaves of the offending plant.  This will effectively kill the weed and leave your landscape plants untouched.  Some weeds, even when large, can still be controlled by hand weeding.  Purslane, Plantain, and even crabgrass can be effectively removed by hand pulling even when large.  A slow, even, and upward pressure applied at the base of the plant is the most effective.  If the soil is dry and clay-based, try watering the area the night before to make removal easier.

Once your beds are weed-free, consider and organic mulch to limit future weed growth.  Organic mulches are convenient and an aesthetically pleasing way to control weeds.  A deep layer (2" for perennials and up to 4" for trees and shrubs) will help eliminate most weeds.

How to plant

Over the past 20 years, I’ve seen many dead and dying plants.  What I’ve seen as the main cause for these losses is quite simple; improper planting.  The first step in successfully completing any DIY design is proper planting.  Here’s what to do.

The weighty decision: The first step is to determine if indeed you can handle the plants you desire to install.  Materials such as annuals, perennials, and potted shrubs are usually easy to handle and plant.  Larger balled and burlapped trees and shrubs can be another story.  The determining factor on these is often the weight of the plants involved.  Nursery standards dictate that 4” caliper trees require a root mass that will weight in excess of 1,300 pounds, a 2.5” caliper tree will weigh 440 pounds, and a 1.5” caliper tree will weigh 330 pounds.  A weight decision indeed.

Digging the hole: The key is to not plant too deeply.  The depth of the hole should be equal to or slightly less than the depth of the plant’s root ball.  The root ball should sit directly on undisturbed soil.  The width of the hole should be a minimum of 6” or wider on all sides for potted material and a minimum of 12”or wider on all sides for balled and burlapped materials.  Make sure that the entire hole is dug to a consistent depth and width.

Planting: For all potted materials, carefully remove the plant from its pot.  If the roots are tightly wound and circling the bottom of the pot, carefully pull the dense root mass apart to guarantee that new roots will readily move outward into the new planting beds.  For balled and burlapped materials, place the plant into the hole with the burlap and twine intact.  Once set into the hole, cur and remove the twine and roll back the burlap to expose the top ½ of the root ball.  The burlap can remain in the bottom of the hole, as it is biodegradable.

Completing the planting: Now is the time to amend the soil that will be used to back fill the planting pit.  We recommend mixing the existing soil with plant starter.  Plant starter is a mushroom compost that adds organic material and nutrients to the native soil.  Next, fill the hole half way with the soil/plant starter mixture and water thoroughly.  Then complete the planting, watering thoroughly once again.  Once completed, the top of the plant’s root ball should be exactly at your site’s existing grade or 1-2 inches above that grade, depending on your soil type and drainage.  Use any remaining soil to create a dyke around the planting area to guarantee that water will pool over the roots and soak deeply into the newly planted root ball.  Finally, mulch with your favorite organic mulch to a depth of 2-3 inches.

Follow up care: It is almost impossible to over-water newly installed plants.  Initially and in hot weather, you may need to deeply water on a daily basis.  After the first week and for the next few following weeks, slowly wean the plan until the plant is receiving one deep and thorough watering per week.  Weekly waterings should continue for the entire first growing season as rainfall dictates.  Do not fertilize newly-planted materials.  Instead, we recommend the use of root stimulator.  Root stimulation is mild transplant solution designed to start the plant off on the right foot.

Finally, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.  Watch for signs of impending problems such as falling or wilted of discolored leaves.  If any of these symptoms arise, contact your sales representative for help.

Pruning for Dummies

Proper pruning of your trees and shrubs isn't necessarily complicated, but it often strikes fear into the hearts of many first time owners of a new landscape.  Here are a few "rules of thumb" to help you during your learning curve associated with a new landscape.
- Try limiting pruning the first year or two.  This keeps the maximum amount of foliage on the plant, producing the maximum amount of nutrients as the shrub works to adapt to its new home.
- Spring blooming plants are best prunes immediately after they flower.  This spring pruning will not only remove and spent blossoms but it will also keep your shrub in shape for the summer ahead.  Remember that spring blooming plants set their blower buds in later summer or fall.  Pruning too late in the year will actually remove the flower buds for the following spring.  Examples of spring bloomers are forsythia, lilac, rose tree of China, bridal wreath, and mockorange.
- Summer blooming plants are best pruned when the plant is dormant.  This includes late fall and early spring.  Examples of summer bloomers would be potentilla, spirea, and Annabelle hydrangea.  Remember that summer blooming plants set their buds in the early spring.  Pruning once the growth has started each spring will remove the flower buds for the summer ahead.
- Trees that bleed readily in the spring and best pruned during the summer.  This allows abundant time for pruning wounds to heal.  Examples of trees susceptible to bleeding are maple, birch, and elm.
- Finally, put away your pruning tools for the months of September and October.  The result of pruning is often new growth.  New growth at this time of year can be damaged by the onset of cold weather.  Why tempt fate?

Hopefully these general rules will make your more comfortable with the process of pruning your landscape plants.  Look for future articles providing specific information on how to revitalize your existing plantings through pruning.

Each spring though fall we see a steady steam of chewed or infected leaves, stems, and branches making their way into our garden center for diagnosis.  Sometimes the diagnosis is easy and sometimes we may never figure out the problem.  In every case, our client is looking for some chemical or treatment to cure their ailing plant.  Sometimes the problem can be treated but more often than not, there is nothing we can do.  Why not?  In almost every case, early detection is the key.  Many fungal problems have no cure once the infection has started or once the caterpillar has defoliated the plant.  At that point, it is too late to treat the problem.

So, what should you do?  I'd recommend that, on a weekly basis or more often if you choose, take a casual stroll through your landscape. Look for the subtle changes in your plants that might foretell a problem in the works.  Look for misshapen or discolored leaves.  Look for leaves that have have unexpectedly fallen to the ground and check them for signs of trouble.  Look for partially eaten or chewed leaves or any creatures taking up residence on the leaves, petioles, or stems.  Look for bumps, growths, or lesions not present earlier.  Once you've detected a problem in its early stage, collect a substantial sample of the plant and come in for help.  With early detection, you may be able to nip the trouble in the bud because it spreads to the entire plant.

With Winter Burn. Patience is Still a Virtue

It's mid-June and many of our winter burned evergreens are on the mend.  New growth is beginning to hide the damage and a simple brush of your hand goes a long way in removing the remaining brown foliage.  Despite these encouraging signs, it could be one or two growing seasons before the plants look the way they did last fall.  The good news is there is hope.  Make sure the evergreens stay well watered and fed through the summer and you'll have done all you can do for now.

So what about those Evergreens that, despite some new growth, are mostly brown and still look awful?  I'm afraid the answer is mostly more patience.  The cool weather has many plants just putting on their spring growth and with time, they will see new growth as well.  However, in this case, there might be some steps you can take beside waiting.  As stated earlier, keep the plants well watered and fed with a mild fertilizer such as Milorganite or Miracid.  Consider pruning back the brown branches until you find new growth or the stems become green and supple.  Once we've given the plants a few more weeks and cleaned out the truly dead material, you will have a decision to make.  Do you give the plant one more a season to grow back or do you move ahead with a replacement?  Horticulturally, these plants will come back, but aesthetically it may be time to go.  Ultimately, the choice is yours.

Whether your plants are once again flourishing or still looking sad, it if safe to say our landscape will continue to show the scars of the past winter for many years to come.

It's never too late!

All too often I hear people tell me that you simply cannot plant after Memorial Day.  Once the calendar hits June 1st, all planting must stop until the fall.  This may have been true once but not anymore.

In the past, many trees and shrubs were only available bare root, a condition when the plants were literally sold with no soil or pot to contain them.  Bare root plants came packed in moist peat moss or saw dust and needed to be planted before the leaves developed.  Even when stored in cold storage, most bare root plants needed to find a permanent home before Memorial Day.  This is probably where the advice to plant prior to Memorial Day came from.

Today, most items are sold either potted or balled and burlapped which means we can plant and improve the appearance of our homes and landscapes from April to frost.  So what is my advice to you now that June is busting out all over?  Relax, plant, and enjoy your home and garden all summer long.

Rose Care

"How do I prune my roses?" is a very common question and one that often puts terror in the eyes of the new rose grower.  Yet the pruning of roses, especially the lower maintenance shrub roses, is quite simple and easy to master.

Seasonal pruning of roses begins in the spring as our snow melts and leaves begin to appear once again on our plants.  The first step is the remove any materials broken or killed by the winter.  Begin by simply removing any broken branches.  Now attempt to remove any stem or portion of stem that has not survived the winter.  Winter-damaged growth will be black in comparison to the green growth of surviving tissue.  Simply remove the blackened stems down to the remaining green growth.  Once this is done, step back and look at what remains.  Your second goal of spring pruning is to create a symmetrical look to the plants.  Reduce the size of the largest stems down to the height of the smallest stems.  Now make one final cut on each stem to encourage strong, healthy growth.  This cut should be made about 1/8th of an inch above a bud or developing stem that faces outward.  With this, your spring pruning is complete.

As the season progresses, your rose will grow and flower throughout the year.  As the flowers fade and the petals eventually fall, it becomes time to change to deadheading mode.  Deadheading is the technical term for removing the spent blossoms.  Once the flowers have faded, prune back the flowering stem to just above a leaf comprised of 5 healthy leaflets.  By doing so, you will promote a strong, new shoot to grow in its place that will eventually develop buds and flowers in about 3-4 weeks.

Fall pruning is even easier...there is none!  As we reach the early fall, stop all pruning on your roses, even the deadheading.  This will encourage the plant to think winter and prepare for the long months ahead.  Next spring simple repeat the process and your roses will be the shapeliest in the neighborhood.

Thatch...It's Not a Dirty Word

Thatch is defined as the layer of accumulated plant materials found between the soil and the green grass itself.  Contrary to most beliefs, thatch is natural and a part of your lawn's growth process.  It even has many beneficial elements such as aiding in the retention of water and nutrients.  It's only when the thatch layer is in excess that problems occur.  Thatch is in excess when it reaches a depth of 1/2 inch.

Cultural practices are usually the cause of excessive thatch.  The two most common reasons for too much thatch are over-fertilization with high nitrogen fertilizers and improper mowing.  The abundant top growth caused by over-fertilization and the buildup up clippings from mowing too short cause thatch to increase quicker than it can naturally decompose.  Our lawns need approximately 4LB of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, no more.  Lawns should also be mowed to a height of no less than 2" in cool weather and 3" in hot conditions.  Do not let your lawn become overly-long between mowings.  Each mowing should remove no more than 1/3 of the grass blade.

The only way to check if your lawn has an excessive layer of thatch is to take a soil core from the lawn and physically inspect the thatch layer.  If it is determined that you indeed have a thatch problem, the best method of control is core aeration.  Aerate twice the first year and each fall thereafter.  Core aeration makes "Swiss cheese" of the existing thatch and encourages natural decay of the existing thatch layer.  Following correct cultural practices will also allow nature to aid in the thatch breakdown.  We DO NOT recommend the use of de-thatching machines and power rakes.  They work by ripping out the existing thatch.  On clay-based soil, you will damage the good grass as well.

Core aerators are commonly rented at equipment rental stores or simply call us to provide all your lawn care needs.

How to mow your lawn

Have you ever taken the time to consider how you mow your lawn?  No? Well, it's time you do.  How and when we mow our lawns can actually make a difference in how it appears, fights disease, and stands up to the droughts of summer.  Following these basic rules will help you have the best lawn possible:

- Mowing Height: We start here because mowing height is vital to a healthy and vigorous lawn.  Blue grass is usually the grass of choice here in the Midwest and it prefers to be mowed quite high.  In spring and fall, set your mower height to no less than 2.5 inches.  When the heat of summer arrives, raise the mowing height even further to 3-3.5 inches.  Remember that the depth of the lawn's roots will usually match the lawn's mowing height.  The taller the grass, the deeper the roots and the more stress and drought tolerant the lawn will be.  Taller mowing heights will also act to shade out many weeds, lessening the need for chemical herbicides.

- Mowing Frequency: How often you mow should not be based on the day of the week or your son's sports schedule.  Lawns are best mowed when no more than 1/3 of the grass blade will be removed by the mowing.  For example, a lawn which is mowed to a height of three inches should be mowed when the turf has reached a height of 4.45 inches.  This may mean a mowing schedule of every 3-4 days in spring and only as-needed during hot, dry weather.

- Direction: If possible, change the direction of your mowing frequently.  One week mow in a north to south direction.  The next week, go east to west.  After that, try a diagonal pattern and so on.  This will help limit soil compaction and make sure the grass is actually being cut instead of simply being laid down underneath the mower blade.

- Mower Blades: Finally, make sure your mower blades are sharp and balanced.  For most people, this will mean caring for the blades once per year in spring.  For very large lawns or in situations when the blades have been dulled or nicked by unforeseen obstacles, you may need to maintain the blades multiple times through the year.

DIY Soil Preparation

Often the success of failure of a landscape planting is based upon what happens below the ground.  Success below ground begins with proper soil preparation.  Whether you consider yourself blessed or cursed by heavy clay soil, sandy soil, or loamy soil, you can improve your soil through the addition of organic material.  By adding organic material, not only do you add beneficial nutrients but you also increase water retention in sandy soils while aerifying and loosening heavy clay soils.  Organic material may take many forms but compost and peat moss are the most common and available.

When preparing to plant, you may choose to prepare an entire planting bed, as is the case for perennial borders, or you may choose to prepare individual planting areas, as is the case for trees and shrubs.  Either way, don't skimp on materials.  For perennial beds, a 2" layer of organic material incorporated into the existing soil to a depth of 6-8" is the minimum recommendation.  A single tree may benefit from a few bags of compost and half a bale of peat.  Could you add more?  Of course!  Just don't create a ratio of more than 50% organic material to 50% existing soil.  Try not to work the soil when too wet either.  If the ground forms a muddy ball in your hand, wait a few days for it to dry out before continuing.  You get one chance to prepare the soil your trees and shrubs will occupy for many years to come.  Make the most of your opportunity.  Dig it!

Get ready for Mother's Day

Here are some great ideas on how to pamper mom this Mother's Day.

Plant one on her: Remember mom with her own tree or rose garden or her favorite flower.

Have a family meal: Mom loves to have the family together around the table on her special day.  Why not give her the table with a purchase from our Berlin Gardens line of outdoor furniture.?

Don't let mom cook on Mother's Day: Do the cooking for her on her brand new Green Egg Grill, complete with eggcessories.

Would mom enjoy a day at the spa?: Make it easy by installing her own private Therasauna and La-Z-Boy hot tub.

DIY Mulching

Mulch is any material places over the soil to control the growth of weeds, keep the soil cool, and conserve moisture.  An essential part of any landscape, right?  Not necessarily!

Gardeners do have options when it comes to mulch.  Light cultivation or tilling of the soil is highly effective in controlling weeds and conserving moisture.  Just ask any farmer and you'll learn how effective it is.  However, it is a time consuming, high maintenance process most homeowners choose not to use.  This accounts for the high popularity of both organic and inorganic mulches in today's landscape.  Let's look at both options in detail.

Organic Mulches: This category includes item such as chopped leaves, compost, cocoa/rice hulls, and shredded bark.  It basically includes anything that once was alive.  Organic mulches are by far the most beneficial to your landscape.  A 2" layer around perennials and up to a 4" layer around trees and shrubs will effectively cool the soil white controlling most weeds.  Yes, you will have to add fresh mulch every few years to maintain the proper depth.  Adequate layers of organic mulch require no man-made weed barriers and help add organic matter to our soils as the decompose.  One very important point that must be remembered is to NEVER pile mulch up against the trunks of trees or the crowns of shrubs and perennials.  "Volcano Mulching," as it has been nicknamed, invites rot and the invasion of insects to the growing points of our plants.

Inorganic Mulches: This category includes decorative stone, rubber, and plastic sheeting. Inorganic mulches are basically maintenance-free once installed and require the use of weed barrier fabrics.  They can often increase soil temperatures in full sun and may limit the movement of moisture and oxygen through the soil.  Price will vary greatly depending on the exact choice as well as shipping and delivery pricing.  Stone should be installed to a depth of 2" and once again not piled up against the trunks and crowns of trees and shrubs.  Many perennials will not survive in an inorganic mulch environment.

Ultimately, the choice of utilizing organic vs inorganic mulches is yours.  However, the decision must be based on the level of maintenance you desire AND the requirements of the plants you have chosen to grow.  A beautiful grouping of massed perennials will cry out for organic mulches while simple plantings of trees and shrubs will do just fine when mulched with inorganic materials.  The choice is ultimately yours so choose wisely.

Pruning for Dummies

Proper pruning of your trees and shrubs isn't necessarily complicated, but often strikes fear into the hearts of many first-time owners of a new landscape.  Here are a few "rules of thumb" to help you during your learning curve associated with a new landscape.

- Try to limit pruning the first year or two.  This keeps the maximum amount of foliage on the plant producting the maximum amount of nutrients as the shrub works to adapt to its new home.
- Spring blooming plants are best prunes immediately after they flower.  This spring pruning will not only remove any spent blossoms but it will also keep your shrub in shape for the summer ahead.
REMEMBER that spring blooming plants set their flower buds in the late summer of fall.  Pruning too late in the year will actually remove the flower buds for the following spring.  Examples of spring bloomers are forsythia, lilca, rose tree of China, bridal wreath, and mockorange.
- Summer blooming plants are best prunes when the plant is dormant.  This includes late fall and early spring.  Examples of summer bloomers would be potentilla, spirea, and Annabelle hydrangea.
REMEMBER that summer blooming plants set their buds in the spring.  Pruning once the growth has started each spring will remove the flower buds for the summer ahead.
- Trees that bleed readily in the spring are best pruned during the summer.  This allows abundant time for pruning wounds to heal.  Examples of trees susceptible to bleeding are maple, birch, and elm.
- Finally, put away your pruning tools for the months of September and October.  The result of pruning is often new growth.  New growth at this time of year can be damaged by the onset of cold weather.  Why temp fate?

Hopefully these general rules will make your more comfortable with the process of pruning your landscape plants.  Look for future articles providing specific information on how to revitalize your existing plantings through pruning.

What Will Winter Leave Behind?

Now that spring is here, what will the winter leave behind?  That's a legitimate question, given that we have not seen most of our landscapes since prior to Thanksgiving.  The answer will depend on our individual situations, but here is what has already become visible with the snow's retreat.

Rabbit damage: Pesky rabbits have damaged many landscape plants through the winter.  Damage has even been seen on many plant types often listed as not susceptible to winter foraging.  The deep snow banks have allowed the damage to extend well up into the branches as well.  For now, all you can do is prune out the damaged areas and make a note to protect these plants from damage next November.

Vole damage: The deep and persistent snow gave both moles and voles a layer of safety as they ate through our lawns.  The retreating snow has left large areas marked by the "race track" like paths of these critters.  The damage is rarely permanent, growing back in a few weeks with a stuff raking and fertilization.

Snow removal damage: A quick look around shows the damage a shovel or plow blade can do as it scrapes across the lawn.  De-icing salts can also leave areas of brown, unsightly grass along heavily-salted walks, drives, and roadways.  If this is occurring in your yard, try using less hazardous salts such as calcium chloride or potassium chloride.  There is not much you can do to prevent damage caused by plow blades and shovels, especially when the damage most likely occurs during the hear of battle as snow piles increase and our patience with removing the snow decreases.

Winter burn on evergreens and broadleaf evergreens: Not only did the winter produce abundant snow but also periods of sub-zero temperatures accompanied by wind.  The result of this weather condition is the browning which is visible on our white pines and broadleaf evergreens like boxwood.  Once again the damage is inflicted and not much can be done after the fact.  Next winter, consider applying anti-desiccants to susceptible evergreens in October.  Also, make sure all your evergreens are well watered at the time of ground freeze.

Who knows what next winter will bring, but if we learn the lessons from this winter, we just might be able to avoid the problems next year.