Weeds: Can't Live With Them

What is a weed?  My plant taxonomy professor made us commit to memory that a weed is "an aggressive invader of a disturbed area."  This is very true but probably not what came to mind as you started reading.  For the sake of this article, let's call weeds "and plant out of place."

So, what is the best way to control these rogue plants in our gardens or landscape?  Plan A is to never let them get out of control in the first place.  The easiest time to control any weed is when it is small.  The key is to eliminate the weed before it becomes deeply rooted in the soil, which can be done in a number of ways.  Small weeds can easily be controlled by hand pulling, hoeing, or chemical application of herbicides.  The best example of such an herbicide is Round-Up.  A weekly inspection and weeding of the landscape will effectively control weeds with the least amount of effort.

If your property is large or your weeds are already out of control, consider yourself beyond Plan A.  Let's discuss Plan B. Plan B will depend entirely on on the weed we are discussing.  Weeds that develop a strong central root (like dandelion) or root along their stems (like Creeping Charlie) have the nasty ability to regenerate themselves from even the smallest portion of the root or stem left behind from pulling.  This means that herbicide applications are your Plan B.  Remember that most over the counter herbicides will also kill your desired plants.  Pre-mixed spray bottles with directional or foaming nozzles, sponges, or even paint brushes can be used to apply the chemical to only the leaves of the offending plant.  This will effectively kill the weed and leave your landscape plants untouched.  Some weeds, even when large, can still be controlled by hand weeding.  Purslane, Plantain, and even crabgrass can be effectively removed by hand pulling even when large.  A slow, even, and upward pressure applied at the base of the plant is the most effective.  If the soil is dry and clay-based, try watering the area the night before to make removal easier.

Once your beds are weed-free, consider and organic mulch to limit future weed growth.  Organic mulches are convenient and an aesthetically pleasing way to control weeds.  A deep layer (2" for perennials and up to 4" for trees and shrubs) will help eliminate most weeds.

How to plant

Over the past 20 years, I’ve seen many dead and dying plants.  What I’ve seen as the main cause for these losses is quite simple; improper planting.  The first step in successfully completing any DIY design is proper planting.  Here’s what to do.

The weighty decision: The first step is to determine if indeed you can handle the plants you desire to install.  Materials such as annuals, perennials, and potted shrubs are usually easy to handle and plant.  Larger balled and burlapped trees and shrubs can be another story.  The determining factor on these is often the weight of the plants involved.  Nursery standards dictate that 4” caliper trees require a root mass that will weight in excess of 1,300 pounds, a 2.5” caliper tree will weigh 440 pounds, and a 1.5” caliper tree will weigh 330 pounds.  A weight decision indeed.

Digging the hole: The key is to not plant too deeply.  The depth of the hole should be equal to or slightly less than the depth of the plant’s root ball.  The root ball should sit directly on undisturbed soil.  The width of the hole should be a minimum of 6” or wider on all sides for potted material and a minimum of 12”or wider on all sides for balled and burlapped materials.  Make sure that the entire hole is dug to a consistent depth and width.

Planting: For all potted materials, carefully remove the plant from its pot.  If the roots are tightly wound and circling the bottom of the pot, carefully pull the dense root mass apart to guarantee that new roots will readily move outward into the new planting beds.  For balled and burlapped materials, place the plant into the hole with the burlap and twine intact.  Once set into the hole, cur and remove the twine and roll back the burlap to expose the top ½ of the root ball.  The burlap can remain in the bottom of the hole, as it is biodegradable.

Completing the planting: Now is the time to amend the soil that will be used to back fill the planting pit.  We recommend mixing the existing soil with plant starter.  Plant starter is a mushroom compost that adds organic material and nutrients to the native soil.  Next, fill the hole half way with the soil/plant starter mixture and water thoroughly.  Then complete the planting, watering thoroughly once again.  Once completed, the top of the plant’s root ball should be exactly at your site’s existing grade or 1-2 inches above that grade, depending on your soil type and drainage.  Use any remaining soil to create a dyke around the planting area to guarantee that water will pool over the roots and soak deeply into the newly planted root ball.  Finally, mulch with your favorite organic mulch to a depth of 2-3 inches.

Follow up care: It is almost impossible to over-water newly installed plants.  Initially and in hot weather, you may need to deeply water on a daily basis.  After the first week and for the next few following weeks, slowly wean the plan until the plant is receiving one deep and thorough watering per week.  Weekly waterings should continue for the entire first growing season as rainfall dictates.  Do not fertilize newly-planted materials.  Instead, we recommend the use of root stimulator.  Root stimulation is mild transplant solution designed to start the plant off on the right foot.

Finally, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.  Watch for signs of impending problems such as falling or wilted of discolored leaves.  If any of these symptoms arise, contact your sales representative for help.