Vande Hey Design Center

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Pruning for Dummies

Proper pruning of your trees and shrubs isn't necessarily complicated, but it often strikes fear into the hearts of many first time owners of a new landscape.  Here are a few "rules of thumb" to help you during your learning curve associated with a new landscape.
- Try limiting pruning the first year or two.  This keeps the maximum amount of foliage on the plant, producing the maximum amount of nutrients as the shrub works to adapt to its new home.
- Spring blooming plants are best prunes immediately after they flower.  This spring pruning will not only remove and spent blossoms but it will also keep your shrub in shape for the summer ahead.  Remember that spring blooming plants set their blower buds in later summer or fall.  Pruning too late in the year will actually remove the flower buds for the following spring.  Examples of spring bloomers are forsythia, lilac, rose tree of China, bridal wreath, and mockorange.
- Summer blooming plants are best pruned when the plant is dormant.  This includes late fall and early spring.  Examples of summer bloomers would be potentilla, spirea, and Annabelle hydrangea.  Remember that summer blooming plants set their buds in the early spring.  Pruning once the growth has started each spring will remove the flower buds for the summer ahead.
- Trees that bleed readily in the spring and best pruned during the summer.  This allows abundant time for pruning wounds to heal.  Examples of trees susceptible to bleeding are maple, birch, and elm.
- Finally, put away your pruning tools for the months of September and October.  The result of pruning is often new growth.  New growth at this time of year can be damaged by the onset of cold weather.  Why tempt fate?

Hopefully these general rules will make your more comfortable with the process of pruning your landscape plants.  Look for future articles providing specific information on how to revitalize your existing plantings through pruning.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Each spring though fall we see a steady steam of chewed or infected leaves, stems, and branches making their way into our garden center for diagnosis.  Sometimes the diagnosis is easy and sometimes we may never figure out the problem.  In every case, our client is looking for some chemical or treatment to cure their ailing plant.  Sometimes the problem can be treated but more often than not, there is nothing we can do.  Why not?  In almost every case, early detection is the key.  Many fungal problems have no cure once the infection has started or once the caterpillar has defoliated the plant.  At that point, it is too late to treat the problem.

So, what should you do?  I'd recommend that, on a weekly basis or more often if you choose, take a casual stroll through your landscape. Look for the subtle changes in your plants that might foretell a problem in the works.  Look for misshapen or discolored leaves.  Look for leaves that have have unexpectedly fallen to the ground and check them for signs of trouble.  Look for partially eaten or chewed leaves or any creatures taking up residence on the leaves, petioles, or stems.  Look for bumps, growths, or lesions not present earlier.  Once you've detected a problem in its early stage, collect a substantial sample of the plant and come in for help.  With early detection, you may be able to nip the trouble in the bud because it spreads to the entire plant.