Vande Hey Design Center

Monday, May 19, 2014

Thatch...It's Not a Dirty Word

Thatch is defined as the layer of accumulated plant materials found between the soil and the green grass itself.  Contrary to most beliefs, thatch is natural and a part of your lawn's growth process.  It even has many beneficial elements such as aiding in the retention of water and nutrients.  It's only when the thatch layer is in excess that problems occur.  Thatch is in excess when it reaches a depth of 1/2 inch.

Cultural practices are usually the cause of excessive thatch.  The two most common reasons for too much thatch are over-fertilization with high nitrogen fertilizers and improper mowing.  The abundant top growth caused by over-fertilization and the buildup up clippings from mowing too short cause thatch to increase quicker than it can naturally decompose.  Our lawns need approximately 4LB of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, no more.  Lawns should also be mowed to a height of no less than 2" in cool weather and 3" in hot conditions.  Do not let your lawn become overly-long between mowings.  Each mowing should remove no more than 1/3 of the grass blade.

The only way to check if your lawn has an excessive layer of thatch is to take a soil core from the lawn and physically inspect the thatch layer.  If it is determined that you indeed have a thatch problem, the best method of control is core aeration.  Aerate twice the first year and each fall thereafter.  Core aeration makes "Swiss cheese" of the existing thatch and encourages natural decay of the existing thatch layer.  Following correct cultural practices will also allow nature to aid in the thatch breakdown.  We DO NOT recommend the use of de-thatching machines and power rakes.  They work by ripping out the existing thatch.  On clay-based soil, you will damage the good grass as well.

Core aerators are commonly rented at equipment rental stores or simply call us to provide all your lawn care needs.

Monday, May 12, 2014

How to mow your lawn

Have you ever taken the time to consider how you mow your lawn?  No? Well, it's time you do.  How and when we mow our lawns can actually make a difference in how it appears, fights disease, and stands up to the droughts of summer.  Following these basic rules will help you have the best lawn possible:

- Mowing Height: We start here because mowing height is vital to a healthy and vigorous lawn.  Blue grass is usually the grass of choice here in the Midwest and it prefers to be mowed quite high.  In spring and fall, set your mower height to no less than 2.5 inches.  When the heat of summer arrives, raise the mowing height even further to 3-3.5 inches.  Remember that the depth of the lawn's roots will usually match the lawn's mowing height.  The taller the grass, the deeper the roots and the more stress and drought tolerant the lawn will be.  Taller mowing heights will also act to shade out many weeds, lessening the need for chemical herbicides.

- Mowing Frequency: How often you mow should not be based on the day of the week or your son's sports schedule.  Lawns are best mowed when no more than 1/3 of the grass blade will be removed by the mowing.  For example, a lawn which is mowed to a height of three inches should be mowed when the turf has reached a height of 4.45 inches.  This may mean a mowing schedule of every 3-4 days in spring and only as-needed during hot, dry weather.

- Direction: If possible, change the direction of your mowing frequently.  One week mow in a north to south direction.  The next week, go east to west.  After that, try a diagonal pattern and so on.  This will help limit soil compaction and make sure the grass is actually being cut instead of simply being laid down underneath the mower blade.

- Mower Blades: Finally, make sure your mower blades are sharp and balanced.  For most people, this will mean caring for the blades once per year in spring.  For very large lawns or in situations when the blades have been dulled or nicked by unforeseen obstacles, you may need to maintain the blades multiple times through the year.

Monday, May 5, 2014

DIY Soil Preparation

Often the success of failure of a landscape planting is based upon what happens below the ground.  Success below ground begins with proper soil preparation.  Whether you consider yourself blessed or cursed by heavy clay soil, sandy soil, or loamy soil, you can improve your soil through the addition of organic material.  By adding organic material, not only do you add beneficial nutrients but you also increase water retention in sandy soils while aerifying and loosening heavy clay soils.  Organic material may take many forms but compost and peat moss are the most common and available.

When preparing to plant, you may choose to prepare an entire planting bed, as is the case for perennial borders, or you may choose to prepare individual planting areas, as is the case for trees and shrubs.  Either way, don't skimp on materials.  For perennial beds, a 2" layer of organic material incorporated into the existing soil to a depth of 6-8" is the minimum recommendation.  A single tree may benefit from a few bags of compost and half a bale of peat.  Could you add more?  Of course!  Just don't create a ratio of more than 50% organic material to 50% existing soil.  Try not to work the soil when too wet either.  If the ground forms a muddy ball in your hand, wait a few days for it to dry out before continuing.  You get one chance to prepare the soil your trees and shrubs will occupy for many years to come.  Make the most of your opportunity.  Dig it!