Vande Hey Design Center

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

The fertilizer debate answered

“I want my plants to really grow fast and fill in, should I fertilize them during or right after planting?” The answer is no!

As much as we want our plants to grow, the goal of a plant’s first year is not to grow above ground but to grow below ground. We want our plants to spend their first summer developing a strong root system to support its growth for years to come. Fertilization (especially with large amounts of nitrogen) will encourage a plant to grow leaves and stems at the expense of its roots-just the opposite of our stated goal.

Instead of fertilizing at the time of planting we recommend applying water soluble root stimulators. Root stimulator will encourage new root formation, root development, reduce transplant shock and develop a greener more vigorous plant in the long run.

We would recommend one application at the time of planting followed by a monthly application for the remainder of the first year. Once established its time to begin regular fertilization, but that’s a topic for a future article.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Bye bye pesky mosquitos!

Did you know that there are about 3,000 species of mosquitoes worldwide with approximately 150 known in North America alone? Mosquitoes have become a main concern for backyard BBQ-ers with their ability to spread devastating diseases with one small bite. West Nile, Yellow Fever, and Encephalitis are some of the diseases that can be carried by the mosquito. However, not all mosquitoes carry these diseases. But the real question is why do these pests want to suck our blood?

Mosquitoes rely on sugar as their main source of energy. Thus, the male and female feed on plant nectar and fruit juices. The sugar is burned as fuel for flight. Blood is used for egg production, therefore only females seek a blood meal and bite us humans and our pets. They lay multiple batches of eggs and require a blood meal for every batch. Heat, chemical, and visual sensors are used to find their prey. Carbon dioxide is a main attractant and is given off through our breath. Since it is impossible for us to stop breathing, what can we do to protect ourselves from the bloodthirsty females?

There are many products out there to control the mosquitoes. There are topical treatments that you have to put on every day and don't always work. The Mosquito Magnet, or variations of, is one product. This product will get rid of some mosquitoes. This product and other similar devices use carbon dioxide to attract the pests to the system and then suck them into a chamber where they eventually die of dehydration. The problem with this device is that you are attracting more mosquitoes to the area. Several hundred mosquitoes may be caught, but several thousand more are in the area.

Our product is the Mosquito Mist Away System. This system does not repel or attract. It kills on contact. It is an automated misting system that goes off two to three times per day at thirty second intervals. Misting nozzles are placed around the desired area to dramatically reduce the population. It also kills ticks, flies, no see-ums, wasps, etc. It uses Pyrethrum, which is an extract of Chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrum has a low toxicity level so it is not a danger to pets and humans when used as directed. We have found that this product actually works! Now you can actually enjoy your beautiful landscape without having to swat away those nasty insects!

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

One container, four seasons of interest!

Container gardening has certainly moved beyond the summer pot filled with one spike, three geraniums, and some vinca vine. Today containers have blossomed (pun intended) into mini-gardens that provide 12 months of interest utilizing color, form and texture.

Plants in the same container should require similar soil, light and watering requirements. If you are unsure about the combination you’ve chosen, ask the sale representative what will work together for your situation. Use plants that vary in color, texture, form, and size. Work with groupings of similar plants instead of filling the container with “one of everything”. Remember in design that sometimes less is more. Cool season annuals such as the new ice pansies, stock, dusty miller, flowering cabbage, flowering kale and alyssum start the season as early as April and appear once again to extend the season into November. In between almost anything goes. Think big, bold, exotic or tropical and don’t forget the vegetables, tender perennials and shrubs. All can make a vibrant display in containers of all sizes. You are probably asking, “What about the period between Thanksgiving and Easter?” That’s the time to think out of the box. Fill the pots and containers with contrasting colors and textures of various cut evergreens, dried materials and fruits.

Soil - Now is not the time to skimp by re-using last year’s soil or relying on topsoil from the garden. Use a professional potting mix. The best potting mixes are a combination of peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, or pine bark. If your choice of potting mix does not contain fertilizer, add a granular, slow release fertilizer or rely on liquid fertilizations throughout the season.

Containers - what one to use? The options are almost endless but don’t be afraid to be as bold with the container choice as you are with the plants. As long there is proper drainage you might choose an ornate, formal clay planter or decide on an old shoe or tea set tabletop garden. Remember, in our area that it is very hard, if not impossible, to winter over living trees, shrubs, and evergreens in outdoor containers. Also remember that clay pots and containers will crumble when exposed to moisture and freezing temperatures. For year round display rely on pots and containers formed of plastic, resin, or concrete. When putting your containers away for the season, clean them with a 10:1 solution of water and bleach, allow them to dry thoroughly, and then store in a dry location.

Watering - Small containers may require watering on a daily basis while larger containers may need watering every 2-3 days. If you are unsure that your container needs watering, just stick your finger into the top 1-2 inches of soil. If moist check again tomorrow to see if the top 1-2” of soil are barely moist. That’s the signal to water once again. When watering remember to water thoroughly. Add water to the container until it flows from the container’s drainage holes. Deep watering such as this will encourage deep rooting. If possible, try not to get the plant’s foliage wet when watering. This can encourage the spread of fungal diseases.

Continue to remove spent flowers and yellow leaves throughout the season. This will encourage more blossoms and further lessen the spread of insect and disease. If problems do arise, seek advice from your horticulturist and “nip the problem right in the bud.”

What are you waiting for! Get planting!

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Welcome!

Hello from all of us at the Vande Hey Company!  We hope you are getting your hands dirty and taking full advantage of this weather... and if you don't feel like getting dirty, give us a call - we'd love to talk to you about your projects.  Plantings, trees, mulch - you name it, we've got ideas for you!